Cheap and full of charm, the Coconut Tree captures the vivid flavour of Sri Lanka
The Coconut Tree, 59 St Paul’s Road, Cheltenham GL50 4JA (01242 465 758). Also in Bristol and Oxford. Dishes £2.50-£8; wines from £17
Eating well is an expression of normality. When we’re not in crisis, we eat well. When we’re not at war, we eat well. It’s also a way of reclaiming normality: of refusing to let the darkness win. It’s why I went to the Coconut Tree in Cheltenham, the original outpost of a small group of places serving what they describe as Sri Lankan street food. A few weeks ago, the island made headlines for the most terrible of reasons: a grim narrative of suicide bombs and body counts. Countries are not defined by atrocity, but by the good things. Great cooking is always one of the good things. A restaurant review cannot defeat terror but, at the very least, talking about the country’s vivid food – its way with coconut, turmeric, cardamom and chilies – is so very much better than talking about all the other stuff we’ve heard from Sri Lanka recently.
Continue reading...from The Guardian http://bit.ly/2WMg9LH
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