Parker’s Tavern, Cambridge: ‘Crowd-pleasing? You won’t want to leave’ – restaurant review

Whether intellectual or not, we can all indulge in Tristan Welch’s first-class cooking

Parker’s Tavern, University Arms Hotel, Regent Street, Cambridge CB2 1AD (01223 606 266). Starters £7-£16, mains £14-£26, desserts £5-£8, wines from £20

Cambridge is a city of furrow-browed intellect, which is why it needs a restaurant like Parker’s Tavern. It is a dining room where the most fundamental of emotions are tended to. Our lunch begins with a version of poutine, the Montreal classic of chips under a magnificent armed assault by cheese and long-braised meats. It ends with a build-your-own ice cream sundae, looking like something from a children’s picture book. In between is a display of extremely assured, confident cooking designed purely to please rather than to dazzle. As a result, it is its own kind of dazzling.

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from The Guardian http://bit.ly/2Il7YmL